Project Local: Vilagrad Wines

We recently visited Vilagrad Winery in Ngāhinapōuri, just south of Hamilton, to see where the rich, blackcurrant-forward Port we’re using in our new Poached Pear Danish is made. What we found was far more than a winery, it’s a fifth-generation family story of resilience, heritage, and deep roots in the Waikato.

Vilagrad isn’t just producing excellent wines. It’s a living piece of local history that has evolved from a small vineyard selling grapes and flagons into a much-loved hub for food, wine, music, weddings, and community gatherings. Two long-standing Waikato family businesses, both built on craft, tradition, and a quiet determination to do things properly, that’s the heart of this partnership.

Roots That Run Deep

The story begins in 1893 when Ivan Milicich Snr left the village of Podgora on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast and arrived in New Zealand with little more than his skills and determination. After years working as a gum-digger and saving carefully, he bought land in Ngāhinapōuri and planted his first grapes in 1906 on what was then a small dairy farm.

In 1922 he obtained a licence to make and sell wine, officially establishing what would become one of New Zealand’s oldest continuously operating family wineries. Today it remains in the hands of the fifth generation, Nelda Nooyen (Ivan’s granddaughter) and her husband Pieter, with their sons deeply involved.

Some of the original vines planted by earlier generations are still producing. Traditional port varieties with large established trunks dating back around 60 years, continue to thrive because the family chose to protect them rather than replace them. Cuttings have been taken so the next generation of vines carries that same heritage forward.

The Art of Making Port

Vilagrad’s Port begins much like a red wine. Fermentation is deliberately kept short — only around two days, until the alcohol reaches about 6–7%. Then comes the crucial step: brandy (distilled from wine) is added. This immediately stops fermentation, preserving the natural grape sugars and preventing the wine from drying out.

The wine stays on skins and seeds for around six weeks, with daily stirring to extract colour, flavour, and tannin. The result is a rich, complex Port with strong blackcurrant aromas and a beautiful balance of sweetness and structure.

Jacob (one of the Nooyen brothers) is also experimenting with his own toasted oak planks suspended in tanks, a creative, cost-effective way to bring oak influence while still honouring traditional methods. It’s this blend of old-school craft and thoughtful innovation that feels so familiar to us at Volare.

A Family That Rebuilds

In 2015 a major fire tore through parts of the property, destroying significant sections of the cellar and restaurant area. The family rebuilt and kept going. That resilience runs through the whole story.

When Jacob’s nana was considering selling the business, his father Pieter stepped in and insisted it stay in family hands. He moved the family back to the vineyard (Jacob was about five at the time) and essentially had one day to learn the ropes before being thrown into it, with the help of experienced winemakers he brought on board.

Stories like these are everywhere at Vilagrad. Jacob’s great-grandfather came from Croatia. His grandmother lived well beyond 100 and famously enjoyed a daily glass of red wine. While Jacob and Adam are two of the Nooyen brothers (with Christian also having been involved), Ryan grew up alongside them and has long been part of the extended family. He worked in the kitchen for many years and still plays bass in the band with the brothers. Their “3 Brothers” wine label captures that spirit of wine, food, and music.

More Than a Winery

Vilagrad is a true multi-generational Waikato institution. It’s a winery, restaurant, wedding and function venue, live music space, cellar door, accommodation provider (with six rooms onsite), and online retailer. Sunday lunches are legendary. Staff regularly move between roles, restaurant team helping in the vineyard during quieter times, chefs lending a hand with pruning. Everyone pitches in. Pieter and Nelda live right next door. It feels like one big extended family operation.

This is exactly the kind of place that has shaped the Waikato for over a century. Generations of locals have celebrated weddings, birthdays, and Sunday roasts here. It proves that premium, award-winning wine can thrive in our region, most recently with their 2025 Pinot Gris taking Gold at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London (scoring 95/100, the only Pinot Gris to achieve Gold).

A Natural Partnership

When we tasted Vilagrad’s Port alongside our developing Poached Pear Danish, it was immediately clear how well they belong together. The Port’s rich blackcurrant notes and gentle warmth add beautiful depth and complexity to the sweet, spiced pear, elevating something familiar into something special.

It’s the perfect expression of what we both value: multi-generational knowledge passed down through families, handcrafted production with respect for tradition, and a willingness to innovate while staying grounded in place. Two Waikato businesses, both deeply rooted in this community, creating something together that couldn’t come from anywhere else.

Vilagrad’s Port is now a key part of our Poached Pear Danish, available in our stores while the season lasts.

We’re proud to partner with a family and a place that has given so much to the Waikato for more than 100 years. Next time you’re driving south of Hamilton, stop in for a Sunday lunch, a glass of something special, or simply to soak up the history.

Project Local is our way of shining a light on the people and producers who share our values and help make Volare what it is. Thank you to Jacob, Pieter, Nelda, and the whole Vilagrad team for the warm welcome and for letting us share a small part of your story.